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Electrical Load Calculator (Residential)

Estimate the total electrical load of a home by combining lighting, fans, appliances, HVAC, water heaters, kitchen equipment and other household loads. Get connected load, demand-adjusted running load and a suggested service (breaker) size.

Supply
Household loads
Defaults are representative for a mid-size home. Read the nameplates where you have them and correct the numbers.
Load Result
connected kW
service amps
How the load is built

About Electrical Load Calculator (Residential)

Every switch in a home adds to the electrical bill of materials: the lights, the fans, the fridge that runs constantly, the geyser that draws thousands of watts while it heats, the oven and induction cooktop that hum when guests arrive. Adding the nameplates gives the connected load — the number the panel, the main breaker and the utility connection must all be designed around.

Electrical Load Calculator (Residential) builds that total from lighting, fans, small appliances, HVAC, water heaters, kitchen equipment and custom fixed loads, then applies a demand factor to show the running load and convert it to the service size in amps with the next standard breaker rating. It is the classic first-pass calculation a spark before panel wiring or an upgrade application.

Everything runs in the browser; nothing is uploaded.

Features

  • Sectioned household load: Lighting, fans, small-appliance circuits, HVAC, water heaters, kitchen and fixed loads each counted separately.
  • Common presets: One-click wattage for ACs, geysers, ovens, cooktops, pumps, fridges and more.
  • Demand factor: Adjustable 0.6-0.8 household default with the math shown.
  • Service size: Running load converted to amps at your supply voltage with the next standard breaker size.
  • Multi-unit: Multiply a household by the number of units / floors on a shared service.
  • Live estimate: Totals and formula update as you edit every field.
  • Export: Copy or download the load sheet as text, CSV or JSON.
  • Learning guide: Connected vs running load, demand-factor logic and how to read a nameplate.

How to Use

  1. Set the supply. Choose single-phase or three-phase and enter the supply voltage.
  2. Count the sections. Enter lighting wattage, fan wattage, small-appliance allowance and the big fixed loads.
  3. Pick preset wattages where you do not have nameplates, then correct the ones you do.
  4. Set the demand factor — 0.7 is a sensible residential default.
  5. Enter units / floors if several share one service.
  6. Read the results. Connected kW, running kW, service amps and the suggested breaker size.
  7. Export the load sheet for the panel or utility application.

Examples

Example 1 — Typical 2-BHK. 2 ACs (2,400 W), 6 fans (450 W), 15 LED lights (135 W), fridge 150 W, geyser 3,000 W, pump 750 W: connected ~7.5 kW, running at 0.7 ~5.3 kW, about 23 A single-phase — a 25-32 A service class.

Example 2 — Bigger home. Add oven (2,400 W) and induction cooktop (2,000 W): connected passes 11 kW, running still lands near 6-7 kVA with diversity — a 40 A service.

Example 3 — Duplex. 2 units at 6.5 kW each plus common lights, pumps and a lift: entering 2 units and adding the common loads produces the shared service size.

Example 4 — Geyser share. With one 3,000 W geyser, that single appliance is often 30-40% of the connected total — the calculator makes the share visible.

Example 5 — Panel check. A connected 8.5 kW with demand 0.65 at 230 V runs about 24 A per phase, so a 32 A main breaker fits with headroom.

Benefits

  • Size the service once: The panel and breaker follow from the running load, not a guess.
  • Stop the tripping: A main breaker matched to honest demand stays inside its limit.
  • Utility-ready figures: Connected load and kVA in the shape the application form wants.
  • Explainable: Connected, demand and service steps are shown line by line.
  • Export-ready: Text, CSV and JSON load sheets drop into paperwork.
  • Free and private: No uploads, no accounts, no logging.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a residential electrical load calculation?
It is the sum of everything that draws power in a home — lighting, fans, small appliances, and the big fixed loads like HVAC, water heaters and kitchen equipment — reduced by a demand factor that accounts for the fact that not everything runs at full power at once. The result sizes your panel and service.
Why use a demand factor?
Homes rarely run every load at nameplate simultaneously. A demand factor — usually 0.6 to 0.8 for a dwelling — turns the worst-case connected load into the realistic running load the service must supply.
How do I find my appliance wattage?
Check the nameplate on the back or bottom — watts are listed directly, or amps x volts give watts. The calculator carries common defaults so you only adjust the loads that differ in your home.
What is the difference between connected and running load?
Connected load is the nameplate total of every switch you could turn on. Running load is connected load multiplied by the demand factor — the number the service and main breaker must actually feed.
How is service size expressed?
In amperes. Common residential services are 40 A, 63 A, 100 A and 200 A. The calculator converts your running load at the supply voltage to the amp size the panel needs, then suggests the next standard size.
What dominates a home load?
Water heaters, ovens, induction cooktops, and the largest ACs or the HVAC system together usually represent most of the load. A single 3,000 W geyser can be a third of a small home total.
Can I use this for a duplex or building?
Yes — the unit-count input multiplies the household load. For common areas and shared services, add them as separate rows in the fixed-load list and use a lower demand factor.
Is my data stored?
No. Everything runs in your browser; nothing is uploaded, saved or logged.